By Rod and Melody | Always Be Vacationing
We're sailing the Mediterranean on Royal Caribbean's Harmony of the Seas, and today is a port day in Palma de Mallorca, Spain. The ship pulls into the busy harbour at dawn, and we're already on deck spotting some of our favorite cruise ships docked alongside us. We are Rod and Melody from Always Be Vacationing, and this is stop #22 on our bucket list of 105 places.
Palma is one of those rare port cities that can fill a day and leave you wishing for more. Here's how we did it.
A quick note on the name: the city is officially called Palma. "Palma de Mallorca" was only the official name during certain periods, most recently 2012–2016.
You'll see both used interchangeably, and most travelers know it as Palma de Mallorca.
Tip #1: Skip the Ship Excursion for the Ride Into Town
The Line 4 bus runs directly from the port to the cathedral for about $3 each way. It's a short, scenic ride around the bend past luxury yachts gleaming in their slips, dropping you right next to the lagoon at the Parc de la Mar with the cathedral towering above you.
It's easy and costs a fraction of what the ship charges. Save the excursion budget for something worth it.
Stop #1: Cathedral de Santa Maria de Palma (La Seu)
The story of La Seu begins with a vow. In the 13th century, a young King James I of Aragon was on a voyage to Mallorca when he battled violent seas and fought to drive the Moors from the island. He promised that if successful, he would build a massive cathedral in honor of the Virgin Mary. La Seu is that promise fulfilled, and it has dominated the Palma waterfront ever since.
Inside, there are 60 stained glass windows, the centerpiece being the enormous rose window above the main entrance. It's 43 feet (13 meters) across and made up of 1,200 individual crystals. It captures the eastern morning sun and floods the chapel with beams of colored light. Twice a year it reflects a perfect figure eight.
If you've seen our Barcelona video, you'll know we're big fans of Antoni Gaudí. We spotted what looked like his work inside. When we looked it up, we found it was completed by his student, Joan Rubió. The influence is clear.
Here's a historical detail that stopped us in our tracks: King James inadvertently created a paradox that has stood for 800 years. Anyone who kneels at the altar of this Christian cathedral is kneeling in the direction of Mecca instead of Jerusalem.
✈ PRO TIP: Book your tickets in advance, especially for the roof terrace.
The roof sells out. Don't show up hoping to get in.
Stop #2: The Roof Terrace of La Seu
This is the part we really don't want you to skip.
Ticketing:
Cathedral entrance: €8 per person
Roof Terrace: an additional €12 per person
Roof access is by guided tour only, available May 2 – October 31
Book ahead. Spots are limited
View from the rooftop of Le Seu, Palma, Spain
Getting up requires climbing a narrow spiral stone staircase, one way up and one way down. It's tight and a little stuffy. Worth every step.
Once on the roof, you're free to explore. You walk past the rose window from above, then look out over the ocean and down on the flying buttresses that hold the whole structure together. In Gothic cathedral design, those buttresses add support from the outside, which is what allows the soaring, cavernous ceilings inside.
The hour we spent on the roof terrace of La Seu is an hour we'll remember for the rest of our lives. It is one of the most unexpectedly peaceful experiences we've had anywhere.
Stop #3: Café Plaça, Rod's Favorite Meal of the Trip
Rod’s favorite meal. Manchego cheese, Ibiza ham, green olives, fresh bread and an espresso.
Back at ground level, Melody was on a serious mission to find food. Rod was less eager to stop exploring. We are both glad she won.
Just steps from the cathedral in a small sunny square, we stumbled onto Café Plaça, and what followed ended up being Rod's single favorite meal of the entire Mediterranean cruise: Manchego cheese, Ibiza ham, green olives, fresh bread, and an espresso. Simple food in a beautiful setting.
There is no tipping in Spain. Pay what's on the bill.
Stop #4: The Gothic Old Town
After lunch, we wandered the narrow cobblestone streets of Palma's Gothic-inspired old town on the way to the next stop. It's an easy walk, and every turn opens onto another small plaza. Give yourself time here.
Stop #5: Bellver Castle: Check Before You Go
Hop on Hop Off Bus
Our planned excursion for the afternoon was the hop-on hop-off bus, booked for under $20 each, with Bellver Castle as our target. Built in the 14th century, the castle sits on a pine-covered hill above the city with sweeping 360-degree views of Palma Bay. It's a circular Gothic castle, and we were looking forward to it.
We hopped off at the castle and found it closed and under construction.
We jumped back on the next bus and that was that.
✈ PRO TIP: Before making Bellver Castle the centerpiece of your day, confirm it's open. When it's open, the views are worth it. Just check ahead.
Honest verdict on the hop-on hop-off bus: It was a waste of time for us on this port day and not something we'd rush to book again in Palma. If the castle is open, it's a good option. If not, you're better off exploring the old town on foot.
Late Afternoon: A Little Shopping and Tapas
We did some browsing through the shops and found a spot called G Aloe Vera with outdoor seating for tapas and espresso in the afternoon sun. It was an easy way to wrap up a full day on the island.
Back on Board
After a full port day, there's nothing better than coming back to your cabin on Harmony of the Seas. We headed out that evening for dinner and a show.
Palma is the kind of place that earns a return trip. If you've been to this port, we'd love to hear your favorite hidden spots in the comments. We're already planning to come back and do it differently.
Palma Quick-Reference: Tips at a Glance
Take the Line 4 bus from the port. It's $3 each way and drops you at the cathedral
Book La Seu tickets in advance, especially the roof terrace (€8 + €12)
Roof terrace is guided tour only, May 2 – October 31
Stop at Café Plaça near the cathedral for simple Mediterranean food
Confirm Bellver Castle is open before building your day around it
Hop-on hop-off bus: only worth it if the castle is open
Walk the Gothic old town and build in extra time to wander
There is no tipping in Spain
Palma de Mallorca is part of our Mediterranean cruise on Royal Caribbean's Harmony of the Seas.Watch the full series →
Keep Planning
Before the cruise: 3 days in Barcelona
Our next port: Cinque Terre, Italy
Watch the whole cruise: Our Harmony of the Seas series
What we pack: Our travel gear list
Stay connected: Get a Holafly eSIM
Tell us in the comments: Would you climb to the roof of La Seu or spend the day wandering the old town?
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