We get one week on Maui, and the Road to Hāna takes a full day of it. We refuse to spend that day stuck behind a line of rental cars at every waterfall. So we drive it backwards: straight to the far end before the traffic wakes up, then we work our way home, stop by stop, while everyone else is heading out.
At a Glance
Island: Maui, Hawaiʻi
Home base: Kīhei, on the south shore
Getting around: Rental car. You need one on Maui.
Road to Hāna: A full day. We left Kīhei early and reached Kīpahulu around 9 AM.
Reservation you can't skip: Waiʻānapanapa State Park (gostateparks.hawaii.gov/waianapanapa)
Fees to plan for: Haleakalā National Park $30 per car (good for 3 days), Waiʻānapanapa $10 parking plus $5 per person, Twin Falls $10 parking
Download before you go: The Shaka Guide app. Cell service drops out for long stretches.
Why We Drive It Backwards
Most people start at Pāʻia and stop at every pullout on the way to Hāna. By mid-morning, the one-lane bridges back up and every parking spot is gone.
We flip it. We drive straight through to the Pīpīwai Trail at the far end, hike it while the parking lot is less than a quarter full, and then make our stops on the drive home. By the time we head back in the afternoon, most of the traffic is going the other way or already done for the day.
One honest warning: driving through without stopping means more curves in a row. Melody got carsick on the way out, even with Dramamine. On the way back, with stops for lunch and coffee, she felt fine. Plan a pullout or two in the morning if anyone in your car gets queasy.
Before You Leave: Pāʻia
Pāʻia is the last full-service town on the road. Fill your gas tank here. There are no more gas stations until you get to Hāna, and you don't want to count on that one.
Pack snacks, water, coffee and motion sickness tablets the night before. We start the Shaka Guide reverse Road to Hāna tour on our phones. It plays stories and directions by GPS, so it works when your signal doesn't.
Stop 1: Pīpīwai Trail, Kīpahulu District of Haleakalā National Park
This hike is the reason we drive backwards. The Pīpīwai Trail runs about 4 miles round trip, through a bamboo forest and up to Waimoku Falls, which drops about 400 feet. Plan on 2 to 3 hours.
The Kūloa Point Trail is a short half-mile loop down toward the ocean and the pools people still call the Seven Sacred Pools (ʻOheʻo Gulch). We did both.
Fee: $30 per private vehicle, good for 3 days. The same pass covers the summit of Haleakalā, so save your receipt for a sunrise trip.
Timing: We pulled in just after 9 AM and the lot had a handful of cars.
Heads up: Swimming in the pools is often closed, and facilities at Kīpahulu have had closures for repairs. Check the park's alerts the night before.
Stop 2: Wailua Falls
Just past mile marker 45, Wailua Falls drops about 80 feet into a pool right next to the road. It may be the most photographed waterfall on the island, and when we pulled up on the way back, there were no other cars.
As tempting as it looks, don't swim. Flash floods come without warning and the pool is deeper than it looks.
Stop 3: Lunch in Hāna Town
We usually rush this road. This time we sat down for lunch at Hāna Ranch Restaurant in Hāna town, and it made the whole afternoon better. Fresh seafood, local produce, and indoor or outdoor seating.
Hours shift with the season, so check before you count on it. Here's the truth about Hāna town: it's small. The drive is the attraction.
Stop 4: Waiʻānapanapa State Park
This is the black sand beach you've seen in photos. Pāʻiloa Bay's sand is made of tiny polished lava pebbles. Around it you'll find sea arches, lava tubes, blowholes and freshwater caves.
The caves hold one of Maui's most haunting legends. A princess named Pōpōalaea hid from her cruel husband in one of them. His men found her by her reflection in the water. Locals say the cave water still turns red at certain times of year. Scientists credit a seasonal red shrimp.
Reservation: Required for entry and parking. Book at gostateparks.hawaii.gov/waianapanapa.
Fees: $5 per person plus $10 per car.
Hours: 7 AM to 6 PM.
Backwards tip: Book an afternoon slot that matches your drive home.
Stay on the marked trails. This land holds burial sites and sacred places.
Stop 5: Nāhiku Marketplace
A little roadside cluster of food and coffee stands about halfway back. We grabbed a hot, rich cup of coffee here and it was just what we needed. It's a good place to stretch and support local families.
Stop 6: Three Bears Falls (Upper Waikani Falls)
Three cascades, Papa, Mama and Baby Bear, side by side into a green pool. Most people see it from the bridge, and that's the right call. The unofficial trail down is steep and slippery. If parking is tight, enjoy it as you drive past.
Stop 7: Keʻanae Peninsula
Turn off near mile marker 16 and the road drops to a rugged point of black lava rock. Families here still farm taro in traditional loʻi (irrigated patches), the way they have for generations.
On April 1, 1946, a tsunami swept through the village and killed 24 children and teachers. The lava rock church was the one building left standing, and it's still there.
This is someone's home, so drive slowly and respect the signs. And yes, you'll smell Aunty Sandy's banana bread before you see the stand. The surf here is rough. Look at the tide pools from a safe distance and stay off the outer rocks.
Stop 8: Twin Falls
Just past mile marker 2, on Wailele Farm. The owners let the public walk the trails to the falls.
Parking: $10, only 55 stalls, first come, first served.
Hours: 7 AM to 6 PM. If you're running late, you can save this one for another day. It's close to Pāʻia.
Grab a smoothie or a fresh coconut at the farm stand.
Road to Hāna Etiquette
For many people out here, this is the only road home. If someone is riding your bumper, they're probably local. Pull into the next safe turnout and let them pass.
At the one-lane bridges, yield to the cars already crossing. Never stop in the road for a photo. There are plenty of pullouts. Drive with aloha and the day goes much smoother.
What We'd Skip, and Our Backup Plan
Skip: Driving past Kīpahulu around the back side of the island. The road is rough in spots, and many rental car contracts restrict it. Turn around and come back the way you came.
Skip: Treating Hāna town as the goal. Eat there, then keep moving.
Backup plan: If heavy rain is in the forecast or Kīpahulu is closed, flip the day. Do Twin Falls and Keʻanae in the morning, make Waiʻānapanapa your turnaround point, and save Pīpīwai for a dry day.
Book This Trip
Hotels and condos in Kīhei: Compare stays on Expedia
Rather not drive the hairpins? Small-Group Road to Hāna Sightseeing Tour or the Road to Hāna Adventure with Breakfast and Lunch
Pack these: Motion sickness tablets, mineral reef-safe sunscreen and water shoes
FAQ
What does it mean to drive the Road to Hāna backwards?
You drive straight to the far end first, usually the Pīpīwai Trail at Kīpahulu, without stopping. Then you visit the stops on the way back. You're still on the same road, going the same direction as everyone else in the morning. You're just doing the stops in reverse order.
How long does the Road to Hāna take?
Plan a full day. From Kīhei, we reached Kīpahulu in about three hours with one stop, and we were back by early evening.
Do I need reservations for the Road to Hāna?
You need one for Waiʻānapanapa State Park. Haleakalā National Park at Kīpahulu charges $30 per car at the gate, and Twin Falls charges $10 for parking with no reservation.
Can you swim at the Seven Sacred Pools?
Often, no. The park closes the pools when there's a flood risk. Check the park's alerts before you go.
More From Maui
Before you book: Read the Maui mistakes we'd never repeat. Learn from ours so your week goes smoother.
Start your mornings like we do: Watch our sunrise at Kamaʻole Beach in Kīhei.
Keep Planning
Watch next: our full Hawaiʻi and South Pacific playlist
What we pack: Our travel gear
More destinations: All 105 Places
Tell us in the comments: Would you drive the Road to Hāna backwards, or book a tour and let someone else take the hairpin turns?
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